Tag Archives: Bravo Murillo

Mercadillo de Tetuan – Madrid’s Other Sunday Street Market

2017_073014_4623_061I had been to El Rastro a few times, like twice or thrice, roaaming Plaza de Cascorro and Rivera de Curtidores, among other important streets of the market. And every time, it never failed to fascinate it. It is not just a market, but more of a huge, open-air art and novelty gallery. This street market is situated within the boisterous neighborhood of La Latina, probably one of Madrid’s most eccentric barrio, together with Lavapies.

Rastro is popular for being one of the few Madrid street flea markets, and like the rest, here is where you could find almost anything that want and need, sold at dirt-cheap prices. Open full-blast on Sundays, it is a major go-to Madrid destination, and a must-see for both locals and tourists alike.

Mercadillo de Tetuan — Another must-visit market in Madrid

Of course, El Rastro is not only the weekend market in the city where you can enjoy some budget shopping. There is the Mercadillo de Tetuan, located in the neighborhood that bears the same name  – a place the attracts throngs of excited, would-be buyers every Sunday.

I am much nearer to the Tetuan Market, my apartment being just a few blocks away from it. Yet ironically, I had been there only twice, including this latest visit of mine.

While El Rastro appears as a labyrinth (hence, there’s a great chance that you will lose your way with one wrong turn), where you’d be surprised that even the narrow inner streets have a lot to offer, Mercado de Tetuan is much easier to check out as everything is conveniently laid out along the length of Avenida de Asturias. In less than half an hour, you would have traversed its whole length, starting at Plaza de Castilla (near Via Castellana Hotel) to its other end, which is within walking distance to La Vaguada mall.

What to buy

The market boasts of a wide variety of goodies, and a large percentage of them are clothing, shoes, and home accessories. The market offers affordable necessities, which makes it one of Madrid’s weekend center of attraction. Needless to say, all roads lead to the Mercado de Tetuan during Sundays, where people enjoy only the best buys.

2017_073012_2354_756Take the metro line 1 or line 10 and get off at Plaza de Castilla station. Seen partially in the photo is the Gates of Europe or Puerta Europa

2017_073012_2326_733Shirts and blouses for women and camisas for women are sold at 3 euros for 2 pieces. Similar stalls are aplenty so you do have a lot of choices. You you need to do is have the patience to rummage through piles of clothing
2017_073012_2247_901Football shirts, scarves, flags, key chains and other accessories, anyone?
2017_073013_4401_937One look at the fruits and vegetables and you’d say they are of the freshest quality. Those who need goodies to fill up their refs and kitchens can check these stalls found at the far end of Avenida de Asturias
2017_073014_4201_763I encountered a stall that sells bird cages, pet food and accessories2017_073014_4428_934A number of stalls entices more customers than the others because of the attractive wares that they offer, like the one above displaying psychedelically designed and colored bags.

How to go there:

Remember that the market opens only on Sunday, from 10AM to 3PM. But, as early as 7AM, vans containing loads of goods are everywhere, and stall owners are rushing to prepare their wares for the expected influx of prospective buyers.

Going to Mercadillo de Tetuan is easy. Plaza de Castilla Metro Station is nearby, and accommodates Lineas 10, 9, and 1. Numerous EMT buses use the plaza as their parada, including 27, 42, 49, 67, 107, 70, 129. Autobuses such as 147 and 5 passes through the area as well.

Hospital de Maudes of Chamberi, Madrid [Sta Maria del Silencio]

imageTravel blogs have lauded this former Madrid hospital for the labourers as one of the most eccentric yet beautiful edifices in the city. I definitely agree with them. Its name is long, Hospital de Jornaleros de San Francisco de Paula; this alone makes you feel it is special. Hospital de Maudes for short,  its impressive white-and-brownish hued facade and stately towers give off a royal vibe.

At least once a week, I never fail to take a short eight-minute (as how I timed it) walk that starts from El Corte Ingles at the corner of Paseo de Castellana and Raimundo Fernandez Villaverde and ends at Cuatro Caminos, or vice versa. And when I do, this building located midway always earns from me a long, bewildered gaze.

Is Hospital de Maudes really a hospital or a church?

I am at a loss about the true “identity” of the Maudes Hospital. Is it really one, when if viewed from afar, it appears to be abandoned? It doesn´t look busy like any typical hospital rendering medical services.

And so I thought I needed to do some sleuthing by visiting the building myself. Going there is easy — Glorieta de Cuatro Caminos, a busy roundabout, is four Metro stops away from Valdeacederas station, which is a few blocks from my place.

Upon reaching the Glorieta, I turned to Fernandez Villaverde and walked its sidewalk down to the spot where I could take some long shots of the building. I also had to take pictures from close range, which meant walking back to the glorieta in order to cross Villaverde street and access the opposite sidewalk.

As I approached the building, I realized it wasn’t a hospital but a church. However, since it was mid-afternoon, the gates were closed and the main front doors shut. I was almost sorry about the glum surroundings.

After taking pictures, I walked to the back of the building, and discovered that this portion faces a street called Calle de Maudes. It became clear that it was named after its location.

A large sign, “Comunidad de Madrid” is posted on the facade, and this got me more confused. Is it a hospital? A church? Or did they turn it to a government agency of sorts?

I noticed a security officer was around, walking and checking the premises, occasionally stopping in front of the gate to observe people passing by. I notice he looked at me as I took pictures from the outside, but he didn’t seem to mind my presence and continued his unhurried gait around. All the while I took shots, I waited for him to venture near the grilled fence.

Finally, he did. This signaled me to field my questions about the building, to which he graciously responded.

Parroquia Santa Maria del Silencio

He explained that the original building was constructed to serve as a hospital, providing medical and health services to the laborers of the city.

Eventually, the property was divided, the part facing Raimundo Fernandez Villaverde now serves as a church, known as the Parroquia Sta Maria del Silencio, the Parish church for the deaf. (This church primarily serves the spiritual needs of people with hearing disabilities.) The other half located along Calle de Maudes Site operates as a government office.

I thanked the security guy profusely for his efforts to enlighten me as far as Hospital de Maudes’s current function is concerned. [I couldn’t remember the number of times I uttered “Como” and “Mas despacho, por favor” as he spoke entirely in Spanish].

Now, I see the building differently, having learned about its history and function as well (a noble one at that). I don’t think of it now as a beautiful building gone to waste but a Palacios masterpiece that has more than served its purpose.

imageThe edifice is currently under the administration of the Comunidad de Madrid.

imageOriginally a hospital that served laborers and workers of the city, the part of the building complex facing Villaverde is now a Church, Santa Maria del Silencio

imageThe Maudes edifice along Calle de Raimundo Fernandez Villaverde

imageNotice how the towers of the buildings have a strong resemblance to those belonging to the Palacio de Cibeles, mainly because both buildings were creations of the same Spanish architect, Antonio Palacio

imageThe beautiful facade of the hospital / church, as seen from the steps of Calle de Ciceron

Facts and trivia

1. Antonio Palacios, the Spanish architect of Hospital de Maudes and Cibele Palace, had a significant part in the construction of a number lineas of Metro de Madrid, designing the entrances to the stations.

2. Year 2016 marks its centenary, since construction was finished in 1916. A beautiful website, Palacio de Maudes, is dedication to its 100-year celebration.

3. The government agency currently housed at the Maudes part of the building is the Consejería de Transportes, Vivienda y Infraestructura, or the Ministry of Transportation, Housing and Infrastructure.

4. The owner of the land on which the building was built is Dona Dolores Romero. She ordered the creation of a hospital specifically meant to welcome city laborers needing medical attention but didn’t have the financials means to pay for it. The hospital was tasked to admit and retain patients up to their full recovery and restored ability to return to work.

How to reach Hospital de Maudes

Hospital de Maudes is found in one of bustling neighborhoods of Madrid, a few hundred meters away from the Glorieta de Cuatro Caminos. Immediate streets are Bravo Murillo and Paseo de Castellana, both of which intersect Calle Fernandez Villaverde, the street where it is found. Important landmarks nearby are El Corte Ingles and the the Governnment office, Nuevos Ministerios.

Nearest Metro Stations: N. Ministerios, Bravo Murillo

Autobus paradas: C1, C2, 149, 40, 5, 27

Map:

(If you have to upload or embed the map of Hospital de Maudes on your own blog or website, don’t search the key phrase Hospital de Maudes, but go for “Santa Maria del Silencio” instead, which is how they refer to the building on Google Maps.)